DOOR FRAME ANS SEALS

THIS STUFF IS 1" HARD PLASTIC TAPE WITH HEAT ACTIVATED GLUE ON BACK. USED TO FINISH EDGES OF MELAMIN PROJECTS.

A HOUSE IRON WILL DO. I HAVE A SEALER.

PUT A LITTLE FOLD/ LOCK AT EACH CORNER

LITTLE SEALER WAS HAVING TROUBLE CREATING ENOUGH HEAT AS THE ALUMINUM JUST SUCKS IT UP SO PREHEATED IT  WELL WITH HEAT GUM. WORKED GREAT THEN. GO AROUND SECOND TIME AND REALLY PRESS DOWN EDGES.

SEAL EDGES ARE 1/8TH INCH X 1" FLAT STOCK. 2 LAYERS.

FIRST IS SPACER AND CREATES 1/8 TH OFFSET.

SEALS ARE DOOD EDGE PROTECTOR RUBBER. THEY SELL THEM AT

AUTO STORES. i WORK AT A DEALER, GET MINE FROM DOORS OF INBOUND TRUCKS....USED DURING SHIPPING.

DOOR FRAME WILL BE 1" X 1" ALUMINUM  SQUARE. AS YOU CAN

PERFECT FLUSH FIT.

SEALER SCHMOOIE.

WRAPPED TO PROTECT PAINED SURFACES WHEN i FLIP IT OVER TO WORK ON DOOR.

ROOF...CEILING

FOR ROOF, USED MY NO WELD FRAMING METHOD WITH SOLDERING.

SEE EARLIER POSTS

SCUFFED INSIDE FOR BETTER ADHESION.

FRAME WEIGHT 10 POUNDS.

CAME OUT TO 12 WITH CLOTH.

 FRAMED IN ROOF VENT AND DRILLED HOLES. WILL NOT INSTALL TILL AFTER EXTERNAL ALUMINUM SKIN IS ON.

MORE WALL WORK

3M 77 IS A SUPER SUPER TACK ADHESIVE. 3M 45 IS MEDIUM DUTY TACK AND I ALSO USE THE GENERAL PURPOSE BLUE CAN STUFF. CLEAN NOZZLE WITH ACETONE AFTER EVERY SPRAYING OR IT WILL CLOG BEFORE CAN IS EMPTY. I PLUG MY NOZZLE INTO A STRAW, DIP INTO JAR OF ACETONE AND SWISH ACETONE IN AND OUT THRU ORIFICE LOTS OF WORK BUT GOT MY CANS TO THE LAST SPUTTER.

THIS IS A 4MIL PROTECTIVE FILM, ADHESIVE ON ONE SIDE. USE TO INCREASE PUNTURE RESISTANCE OF WALLS ON LOWER PART OF WALL THAT WILL TAKE MY ABUSE.. PULL VERY TAUNT.

TIP.........BEFORE STARTING PULL, HAVE CLAMPS SORTED AND READY TO GRAB QUICK. YOU'RE RACING AGAINST ADHESIVE SETTING UP.

KEEP HEAT GUN (HARBOR FREIGHT) MOVING. WRINKLES WILL DISAPPEAR.

AIN'T SCIENCE.................IT'S MAGIC!

WHEN DOING FABRIC PULL, ONLY COAT OUTER PERIMETER WITH 3M 77. OR ELSE TOO MUCH STICKY SURFACES ALL AT ONCE. AFTER TAUNTING, MASK WHERE

CROSS PIECES ARE, SATURATE WITH GENERAL PURPOSE AND WEARING RUBBER GLOVE, SQUISH IT DOWN.

TIP ON STRETCHING................."Z" FOLD FABRIC, TACK DOWN ONE ENDS WITH CLAMPS. PULL FABRIC TOWARD YOU LIFTING AND KEEPING OFF ADHESIVE. PULL DOWN BUT DON'T SET FABRIC ON ADHESIVE PERIMETER HARD. START PULLING, WORKING OUT WRINKLES AND CLAMP. GO AROUND TWICE. 

ANOTHER FABRIC TIP. DON'T BUY "PRESHRUNK" YOU WANT THE SHRINKAGE. BUY 100 COTTOM MEDIUM MUSLIN WEIGHT. HAVE SHOP GIVE YOU CARDBOARD TUBE. IROM OUR WRINKLES...ROLL ONTO TUBE..

NO PICTURE......LET ABOVE DRY. WHERE FABRIC GOES OVER EDGE, LIFT AND SPRAY FRAME AND FABRIC, LET SET UP THEN TAUNT FABRIC DOWN ON EDGES. LET DRY, TRIM EXCESS WITH RAZOR BLADE.

THICK COAT PRIMER TO FILL ALL PORES. USE LOW KNAP ROLLER TO KEEP

SURFACE SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE.

MY UPPER WALLS AND CEILING ARE THIS SO I CAN MAKES NOTES TO MYSELF.

I SANDED PEBBLE FINISH FAIRLY SMOOTH WITH 200 GRIT. CLEAN WELL. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. THE STUFF IS EPOXY BUT IT'S THINNER THAN YOU EXPECT. I GOT ON 4 COATS BEFORE POT LIFE EXPIRED( ABOUT 20 MINUTES PER COAT...DRYING) AND IT CAME OUT VERY SMOOTH.

HAD SOME OLD PINSTRIPE TAPE. WHY NOT?

BUT I FIGURED I'D BETTER PROTECT IT.

THIS IS THE CHEAP WHITE STUFF...1". WRONG PICTURE. GET CHEAP WHITE STUFF.

I USED THE GENERAL PURPOSE AND SOME CONTRACTORS GLUE.

CUTTING TIP..............USE STRAIGHT EDGE. MAKE MULTIPLE DEPTH PASSES. USE A SNAP OFF BLADE CUTTER..........LOTS OF BLADES. CHANGING BLADES FREQUENTLY GIVES YOU A NICE EVEN EDGE. NOT CHANGING BLADES AND AFTER A FEW CUTS YOU GET RAGGED CRUMBLY EDGES.

AT THIS STAGES, SIDEWALLS WEIGHT 25 POUNDS, CEILING 12.

THAT'S ENOUGH. GO HAVE A BEER.

KITCHEN RAIN/SUN SHADE

 A 4' X 4' FOLDABLE GALLEY SHADE BECAUSE I'M BUILDING A SIDE OPENING DOOR.

USING MY NO-WELD BOLT TOGETHER TECHNIQUE. THIS IS FRONT

CLAMP DOWN.

HAD TO FAB THE HINGE. IT HAD TO SLANT UP TO GIVE HEADROOM

CLOSE TO THE GALLEY.

BOLTED DOWN WITH THREE BOLTS TO COUNTERACT FLEXING.

I'LL USE A 1" X 1" L CROSSWISE WITH CAULKING SO RAIN WILL DRAIN

OFF SIDES.

I'LL PROABLY COVER IT LEFT OVER ALUMINUM FROM  OUTSIDE SKIN,

BUT A 4 X 4 OF THIS WOULD WORK.

CABIN FLOOR

THE PINK 3" DOW FOAM AT HOME DEPOT IS 15 p.s.i., THEY MAKE A 100 p.s.i. VERSION YOU CAN GET AT SPECIALTY CONCRETE CONTRACTOR SUPPLY. WITH ALL THE EXTRA ALUMINUM CROSS MEMBERS, I THINK THIS ISSTRONG ENOUGH TO SUPPORT ME AND THE PUP.

CUTS WELL WITH JIG SAW

BOTH SIDE COATED BEDLINER MATERIAL

TOP COVERED WITH A PIECE OF LINLOLEUM I HAD FROM BATHROOM PROJECT

HAD TO WEIGHT IT WELL TO GET OUT CURL

TO PROTECT IT  DURING REST OF BUILD, COVERED WITH PAPER

SEALED EDGES WITH ADHESIVE TO KEEP FROM CURLING, HOPEFULLY

I'LL USE THESE PADS FOR FINAL FLOORING WHEN DONE

CHEAP AT HARBOR FREIGHT

WHERE STRINGERS CROSSED FRAME CROSS MEMBERS THERE WERE 1/8TH

GAPS THAT MIGHT ALLOW FLEXING. FILLED WITH SCRAPE PIECE GLUED DOWN.

USED QUICK GRAB CONTRACTOR GLUE AND SET FLOOR.

ADDED WEIGHT AND ALLOWED TO DRY. STRONG AND NO APPARENT FLEX.

THINK IT'LL WORK. ENTIRE FLOOR WEIGHT 7 POUNDS.

FINAL TOUCH. REMEMBER SLOB-SLATHERING TECHNIQUE FROM COATING FRAME?

WORKS GOOD HERE WITH HEANRYS ROOFING FOR UNDERCOAT. CAN'T GET IT ON

TOO THICK.